Why you need both as an important part of your ageing gracefully skin care routine.
The terms "Moisturise" and "Hydrate" are often used interchangeably when it comes to skin care. It can be confusing and we often think that they have the same meaning when choosing skin care products. The fact is, the terms both mean something different. Hydrating your skin (and hair) is not the same as adding moisture...and vice versa.
Confusing? Sort of!
Let's end the confusion and look at how both play an integral role in keeping your skin healthy, supple, and glowing!
Hydration
First things first- All Skin Needs Hydration.
The same way that your body needs hydration to function well, your skin cells need hydration to be plump and have some bounce. When your skin is hydrated, the higher water content leads your skin cells to absorb water and swell. Think of the the cheeks of a baby or young child, or even our skin when we were younger...Press on the cheeks of a baby, and they bounce right back! That;s what makes them so irresistible!
As we age, our skin loses its ability to stay hydrated which leads to a dull and lack-lustre complexion.
How can you tell if your skin is dehydrated? Fine lines and wrinkles are more prominent, the under-eye area is sunken, skin can look dull, feel tight, and be prone to sensitivity. Has your skin started producing more sebum (oil) as you've aged? Skin can overproduce oil to compensate for the dehydration.
Dehydrated skin can occur in all skin types and is not exclusive to those with dry or combination skin
Although dehydrated skin can be caused by different factors, more often than not it's the result of using skin care products that contain harsh or skin-sensitizing ingredients that disturb the skin's moisture barrier (more on that in an upcoming blog post)
What to avoid
Denatured Alcohol (SD Alcohol)
Harsh toners that include alcohol and Witch Hazel
Natural oils such as lemon and peppermint
Fragrance
Face scrubs/ cleansing tools
Overuse of exfoliants, High Strength Vitamin C, Retinoids, (all at the same time or every day)
ALL can lead to aggravated and dehydrated skin. They can also stimulate excess oil production at the base of the pore so skin ends up being oilier and more prone to developing clogged pores.
What to include
Think of Hydration as being a large, cool glass of water for your skin. With skin-care, humectants are that "tall glass of water" that your skin needs. Humectants are hydrophilic agents that attract water from the body and the environment.
Aloe Vera,
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids,
Amino Acids are natural humectants that attract and bind water to the skin. They also have additional properties like boosting the water production and replenishing the skin. These can be found in individual formulations are work wonders for hydration!
Urea,
Butylene Glycol,
Sodium PCA are synthetic humectants that are equally effective but don't have any extra skin care benefits. You will find these listed with other ingredients to support healthy skin.
Hyaluronic acid is an extremely effective and popular humectant and for good reason! It holds 1000 times its weight in water! Its reduces the signs of ageing, helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles, and promotes wound repair.
Many people report that their skin feels “dewier,” the bags under their eyes become lighter and their skin texture is smoother after applying serums containing hyaluronic acid. (Dr Josh Axe)
Though Hyaluronic Acid occurs natural in our bodies, it comes in a synthetic, yet effective, form when used in topical skin care.
A few of my favourite Hydrators are:
TIPS FOR USING HUMECTANTS
Apply to damp skin before moisturising
Press in. Don't rub (Its more gentle on your skin)
Lightly Spritz your skin with a facial water such as Evian or La Roche Posay to give extra hydration for the humectant to hold on to.
Moisture
Does all skin need Moisture? If you are over 40, probably.
Moisturisers is for dry skin that lacks natural oil production and seals in water from hydrating products. Over time, skin loses its ability to stay moisturised as it did when we were young. This occurs for a variety of reasons, but mostly because of sun damage and age. (SO wear your sunscreen!) Moisturising means that you are locking in moisture to restore and reinforce the moisture barrier in order to prevent Transepidermal Water Loss. It does this by way of occlusives which create a protective film on the skin.
Oils such as squalene, silicones, cocoa and shea butters, waxes, and lanolin are all examples of occlusives.
Moisturisers generally come in 3 different formulas:
Gels/ Serums are water based and are quickly absorbed by the skin. They have less emolients and leave less of a residue. If you struggle with combination or oily skin, a gel moisturiser or serum will work well for you.
Lotions have both water and oils in them so will help to seal in that hydration more than a gel will. Lotions are great in the summer when skin tends to remain slightly more hydrated. Normal, sensitive, and combination skin will benefit from a lotion year round.
Creams have the most emollient, replenish essential skin barrier components and work well at preventing loss of moisture. If your skin is dry, tight, itchy, and/or flaking, creams will work best for you. They are also wonderful in the dry, cold winter months at protecting the skin!
A few of my favourite moisturisers are:
Paula's Choice Nightly Reconditioning (Lotion for Day and Night)
Paula's Choice Super Light Wrinkle Defence SPF 30 (a Light tinted moisturiser with SPF for the day)
The Ordinary NMF (Cream with amino acids, fatty acids, triglycerides, ceramides)
Seint Creme (with natural skim milk, alpha-hydroxy lactic acid, vitamins A & E, and Jojoba oil. For Nightly use)
Hydrate from the inside!
While there's no scientific evidence that drinking water will make a difference in the skin (water will head to all your other essential organs first), many people have reported more radiant or clear skin after increasing their water intake. The bottom line is that it can't hurt to drink plenty of water and you will be at the very least preventing signs of severe hydration like dry, tight, or itchy skin.
Increased water intake, a healthy diet rich in Omega 3 fatty acids, a variety of fresh fruit and vegetables, flax seed, and a good night's sleep, as well as skin care, all will work wonders to give you that everyday glow both inside and out.
If you have a favourite moisturiser that you would like to give a shout out to, I would love to hear from you!
Comments